I had no idea when I published my last post, nearly 5 years would pass. A lot has happened in my life and in the world but the one constant has been travel. I think the best way to tackle the intervening years would be one year at a time. In my last post I had covered most of the places I was fortunate enough to see with my husband. Many had also been in the company of my friend, who as I previously mentioned is also a cancer patient, now a 15 year survivor and still traveling every three months to Chicago for check ups and/or further treatment. Her name is Rose and her story is nothing short of remarkable. Both Rose and my husband chose to travel to treatment rather than to stay in the local area where options, expertise, equipment and innovative care can be limited. The travel can seem daunting at first but with practice, is perfectly manageable. If you have someone to travel with that’s a bonus but Rose has been managing her commute for care solo, for many years. The airlines are more than accommodating and wheelchairs with “drivers” when needed are always available. I know this is not something most people would wish for but you have to think logically here. Airports are big places and unless you’re capable of walking distances that sometimes seem like miles, the chair will get you there on time and not short of breath. When my husband finally got over the initial embarrassment of recognizing he could no longer navigate the airports, it seemed like the world opened up again. After my I lost my husband, in addition to being a loving and supportive friend, Rose knew my passion and when the time was appropriate, she asked if I still wanted to travel. I did. 2014 was a difficult year. Aside from a short trip to New Orleans with friends, there was not much I was able to do.
My daughter was getting married without her father to walk her down the aisle but we did manage to give her a beautiful wedding that is still talked about today.
2015 was the year Rose and I were to fulfill her childhood dream to walk on the Great Wall of China. Six weeks before we were scheduled to leave, Rose fell, broke her nose and her neck. Surgeons gave her a 17% chance of walking again. The Energizer Bunny has nothing on Rose. She spent most of 2015 recovering (while managing cancer) and proved the surgeons wrong. I was able to make a trip to Savannah Georgia where my daughter and her husband had relocated. It worked its magic on me.
It’s now 2016 and the China trip is on again. I will tell you, don’t make the mistake of thinking just because it’s not high on your list of places to visit, you shouldn’t go. China was spectacular. This trip started in Singapore. What an incredible place. After a 22 hour flight from JFK, we were hungry and the first place we saw was-what else?-a German restaurant! Good food.
Singapore is the cleanest place I’ve ever been! Amazing sights and nearly no crime. That may have something to do with the immigration card you are required to fill out upon entry. On the back in bold red letters it states “WARNING, DEATH FOR DRUG TRAFFICKERS UNDER SINGAPORE LAW”.
We had the required “Singapore Sling” at Raffles.
From Singapore, we boarded a cruise ship to Viet Nam, Hong Kong and finally Shanghai. Whatever your thoughts on Viet Nam, it’s well worth the visit. The streets of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) are totally populated with motorized scooters, many transporting entire families. Our bus seemed like a dinosaur in a garden of ants.
The city, like so many in Asia, is a fascinating mix of old and new. We had lunch in a beautiful countryside restaurant where the food was plentiful and really good. Since my husband had been a Viet Nam vet, I decided I wanted to visit the Viet Cong tunnels. I’ll admit it was a sobering experience to realize how much was accomplished underground in such tight quarters. All of the nasty little tricks of waging a jungle war from the perspective of the opposition were sill there to be observed. All in all, it was worth seeing to gain a better understanding of that conflict. After my trek through the tunnel, I realized I’m not claustrophobic! Next Stop, Hong Kong. Anything you may have heard or seen on TV or in photos does not do it justice. Hong Kong is incredible. Densely populated, a mixture again, of old and new, magnificent skyscrapers and antique Asian architecture. We took the tram to the top of Victoria Peak but the fog was so thick that day, not much was visible. Toured the harbor in a covered flat bottom boat but unfortunately, there was not enough time to have a meal at the world famous floating restaurant, Jumbo.
We did get to see it though. Sadly, it became a casualty of the pandemic, weather and social unrest. It was in the process of being moved to Cambodia when it capsized or sank, depending on who you ask. The choice that day was lunch or shopping and since Hong Kong shopping is legendary, we shopped. If you think Hong Kong is hot and steamy, the day we were there, we froze! Thankfully, while shopping, I acquired a very beautiful and very inexpensive cashmere sweater and socks. The next stop was Gulangyu, a pedestrian only island off mainland China. This was a beautiful and serene place. We happened to land there on a day when scores of weddings were taking place. Lovely ladies in gorgeous ball gowns of every rainbow color and expectant grooms all there to become husband and wife. We were treated to lunch at a magnificent hotel, a puppet show and Chinese Opera.
Finally, we docked in Shanghai and spent two days in this incredible city, Rose is an Olympic category shopper and we managed to find beautiful jade items to take home. We rode to the top of the Pearl Tower and were able to look down at the city from its glass floor. Not for those with a fear of heights!
We had booked a 6 day 5 night tour in China that included transportation from Shanghai to Beijing with a private car and driver and an English speaking tour guide. Sounds expensive but not so in China. Next stop the train station where we boarded a high speed train for Beijing and six days of sightseeing. We were met by our tour guide Herbie and our driver Mr. Lee. We couldn’t have asked for better people to guide us through the following days.
First stop, Tiananmen Square
Next stop the, much anticipated Great Wall. Its enormous size, power and beauty far exceed the borders of any photograph.
Of course, once on the wall, Rose had to do her best Rocky imitation.
If you’re wondering how you get up there, it’s a conveyance much like a ski lift. I wondered how that would work with Rose but Herbie assured us there would not be a problem. The problem solvers turned out to be two very large and very muscular Chinese men who scooped Rose off the tram and gently placed her on the ground! I was so engrossed in this process, I almost forgot to get off and was myself scooped off the tram! Lots of photo opportunities later, we made our way back to the hotel to rest up for the next day and the Forbidden City.
Interesting fact, most of the mortar used to build the Great Wall has lasted until this day and is considered stronger that what is commercially available. The secret ingredient? Rice.
It’s hard to believe this is a complex of 180 acres. Navigating this complex would have been difficult if not impossible for Rose who did have mobility issues after her accident. Not a problem in China. Dozens of entrepreneurs with their own wheelchairs are available to take you around the entire complex for a very reasonable fee. The beauty of the Forbidden City is hard to describe. Everywhere you look, there are magnificent buildings, statues and art. While not every building has interior access, the interiors of most can be through open doors. The entire complex is pristine. Not a sign of litter anywhere.
We ended the day with a dinner of Peking Duck at a restaurant of the same name.
The duck was delicious, the day was long and the hotel bed was calling. The next day was sightseeing in Beijing where we saw the new and the very old. Beijing is an interesting mix of the younger generation who are very much aware of the trends and tastes of the world and the older generation who are firmly entrenched in the China of the past.
The highlight of the day was of course, the Pandas at the zoo. One in particular made it a point to entertain us by posing in his rocking chair.
That evening we attended a Kung Fu show. Not knowing what to expect, we were pleasantly surprised to discover it was actually a Chinese musical depicting the history of Kung Fu.
The next day we boarded an overnight train to Xian to see the Terracotta Soldiers. All the stories and photos can’t come close to seeing it in person. Rows and rows of life size figures, each with a different face. There are horses, chariots and mounted soldiers. The restoration process is partially in view with thousands more figures to go. I was completely awe struck.
We were then treated to lunch and a tour of the local temples. What magnificent sights and a perfect way to end this memorable Asian adventure.
This was the last stop on our tour and we were flown back to Beijing airport where we boarded a plane for home.
I want to emphasize this trip came on the heels of Rose’s accident which limited her mobility. If the desire is there, just about any type of limitation can be overcome. You just have to know what you will need, where to look and who to ask.
More to come.